Recommendations

Two restaurants in one.

Strengths

• The great thing about the newly opened Italian wine bar and restaurant, Centro Vinoteca, is that it’s really two (wonderful) restaurants in one. For those who like the energy of an open kitchen and a bustling bar, there’s the ground floor dining room. Enjoy the lively atmosphere as you lounge on cool leather banquettes and watch the characters passing by on Seventh Avenue South.
• If you’re craving that old-fashioned pastime known as quiet conversation, the second floor offers an escape from the din. You’ll a salon-styled room filled with intimate tables for two and cozy tufted oval banquettes.
• Whatever your mood, both floors offer the same soulful Italian fare -- the food will make you wonder whether there’s an 80-year old Nonna in the kitchen. (There isn’t. Chef Anne Burrell, who’s only in her 30s, is the one to thank.) Don’t miss the wedges of Parmesan-battered cauliflower in a garlicky agliata, the housemade pici with sausage ragu, the lightly crisped skate with a lemony fennel aquapazza, and the end-table sized, super-juicy double pork chop. For dessert, try the sweet and buttery taralucci with a pot of warm salted caramel for dipping: it’s the most satisfyingly simple way to end a meal that I’ve come across in some time.

Shortcomings

• Centro is a scene. One of the former hosts from the Waverly Inn is the maitre d’, and it’s the second restaurant from Gusto owners Sasha and Alexei Muniak. As a result, the downstairs dining room can get crowded and loud. If you’re not into that sort of dining, you can either (a) move to Montana, or (b) request a table on the more serene upper floor.

Insider tips

• If you can’t get a reservation (the place books up fast), don’t be discouraged. You can walk in and try your luck at the bar, where the charming bartenders serve the full menu. You’ll also have a bird’s eye view of Anne and her crew working in the open kitchen.

Anecdotes

• I went to Centro with a group of ten to celebrate a friend’s birthday. Sometimes large parties can really overwhelm waiters and kitchens, but not so at Centro: the service was excellent throughout. What’s more, while the impressive food and the glamorous vibe make you feel like you’ll be shelling out a pretty penny, we walked out spending less than $50 a person.

Credentials

• Chef Anne Burrell trained in Piedmont, Tuscany and Liguria in Italy, and at Felidia, Savoy, and Italian Wine Merchants here in New York. Still, she’s probably best known as Mario Batali’s right-hand woman on Iron Chef.