Recommendations

I recently took my first trip to Argentina, famous for steaks, among other things. Oddly enough, I found myself jonesing for Peter Luger’s.

Strengths

• Luger’s started it all way back in 1887.
• They set the standard by which all other NY steak establishments are judged. Their alumni have gone on to open some of the best steakhouses in NYC, including Wolfgang’s (a personal favorite), Mark Joseph and Ben & Jack’s (started by not one but two ex-Lugerites).
• For what Luger’s does best, they are still tough to beat. That being juicy, dry-aged porterhouse steaks, fried potatoes, creamed spinach, thick-cut bacon, tomatoes and onions with their eponymous sauce, and cheesecake or chocolate mousse as an excuse to top them with schlog – heavy whipped cream that clogs arteries faster than Britney ditches rehab.

Shortcomings

• The atmosphere is definitely no-frills, but the austerity is part of the old school charm.
• They only take cash.
• Mediocre wine list.
• It can be a pain to get a reservation.

Insider tips

• Don’t ask for a menu. Just tell them what you want. And don’t stray far from the porterhouse and sides listed above (add shrimp cocktail, alternative side-orders or desserts and you’re all good).
• They tend to undercook.

Anecdotes

• I was a bit surprised on my first visit to Luger’s. I remember being a bit intimidated. It seemed like an old boys’ club where I was the only non-member. Everybody seemed to know the deal but me. The waiters were gruff and didn’t pass out menus. The rules were all somehow understood. And the place seemed like a mess. I was expecting it to be fancy but it was anything but. Then I tasted the food, and I “got it”. It’s kind of like hazing at a fraternity.

Perfect for

• Steak lovers.

Credentials

• Zagat consistently ranks them as the #1 steakhouse in NYC, with a 28 rating for food (and 19 for service!)